Saturday, January 16, 2010

I had a personal panty party!!

Remember I told you I had taken a lingerie construction class last semester? Well, here are some examples of what I learned to do. They are so fun to make and very easy! So the other day I made these...

Le Fred's Clio pattern

My new favorite ready made pattern is the Clio blouse from Le Fred.

This is my first one made directly from the envelope with a linen/rayon fabric as suggested.

Here is my crepe de chine version. I took out the center seams and made the skirt fabric from pin-tucking it. I also like this fabric with the one layered underneath the skirt.  I also wanted a v neck and wanted a more flowy drape.

I also added a lightweight stretchy elastic across the back bodice seam for more waist shaping. It's not the best photo. I took it after wearing without pressing it.

Now I wanted to try it with a cowl neck. The first one below is a polyester chiffon. This final version is some silk chiffon, two layered skirts with the top skirt shorter. It is lined with silk charmeuse. I LOVE this pattern and have several more ideas for manipulating it with even more fabric types. 

Thanks Fred for your great "Clio" pattern!!
For more photos including the backs of these check out my flicker site.

I have been away

I have been sewing actually quite a lot in the past few months. But because I have been taking classes at Canada college in their fashion department, ( I haven't made time for postings. My classes this past semester were not intuitive for me making them much more time consuming. I was taking "Techniques of Fit" and "Advanced Flat pattern". I also took a short class on lingerie construction only lasting a few weeks and was easy fun play time. I did take many photos of things I've been working on and those are posted on my flicker account I think you will still find it fun to look at even though I decided not to try to play catch up.

The very exciting thing from the Fit class is that I now know how to fit people and have a sloper for fitting myself. Did you realize that it is not a blob of fat or a boney figure you have there but a figure variation? Every part of your body is in some way a body variation. We all have them, not one single person is exempt. And yet we wonder why we can't buy a pattern or a piece of clothing and really have it fit. No two bodies are the same. No article of clothing by its nature can fit every figure type. And sizes, let's not get started on the mystery of the number. People want to buy the smallest number they possibly can. Just yesterday I saw a personal shopper talking about size. She stated that she has been with women who will buy things that don't fit well because they wanted the smaller size. Clothing will look so much more attractive and complementary when it FITS. This woman also said that all women should have a good, trusted alteration person so they get the best fit. Let's be honest here it simply isn't in everyone's budget. But you can buy clothes that fit and are attractive no matter what your purchasing budget is.  I know I've been guilty of trying to squeeze into the smaller size also.....I hope to be doing better as I am more educated.

Advanced pattern was my favorite class. I feel like I could spend a full year at least in this class. We took slopers and developed patterns from them for woven fabrics. We tested patterns in full scale to make sure we were developing the patterns correctly. For our midterm we were given line drawings of fashions and then made the patterns without notes. I was successful but I will say that in real life I will  be happy to have reference material available to me.
 I skipped over the beginning pattern class. Doing so was good and bad. Bad because I had to come up to speed. Good because I was challenged and was able to learn more. It took me quite a few hours to complete my homework each week as I wanted to make sure it was done correctly and I was very particular about my pattern drafts. For my final original garment I was able to use my completed sloper (from the fit class) to create an outfit for myself. Between the fit and pattern class I think I will no longer be able to buy off the rack again. (except knits) During the semester I had purchased a very lovely silk charmeuse blouse. When I tried it on there was plenty of fabric but the fit was all wrong. Before this class I would have just thought, " well, it's not great but I don't know why and it does go around me." Now I know why, all those figure variations that the original pattern wasn't designed for. Patterns are designed for the "ideal" figure which I learned doesn't even really exist. I have a new found respect for the runway models, they can't eat and fit into those clothes. The industry does need to change in this regard.

I'll work on posting more about the things I'm doing as I do them. School starts back up this Thursday for me. I am ready to get back to it.